Next time you're staring at that tropical screensaver on your monitor, and counting the days until your next visit to the islands, don't get depressed.

Yes, that next vacation may be far off in the future, but a little taste of aloha is closer than you think. It's just over the hill in Malibu at Duke's Restaurant and Barefoot Bar.

The eatery is inspired by legendary Hawaiian surfer Duke Kahanamoku, who was appointed Hawaii's "Official Ambassador of Aloha" in 1960 after the islands achieved statehood. Duke's is part of the family of T S Restaurants, the same company that operates two other Duke's in Honolulu and Lihue, along with Kimo's, a landmark in Maui's Lahaina.

Just as you would expect, Duke's occupies a premier waterfront location on Pacific Coast Highway. It makes the most of the setting, with 300 feet of picture windows and a table layout to take advantage of them. You can drink in views of the coastline and let your worries drift away on the tide from every seat in the house.

Also as you would expect, the menu is rife with seafood choices. Eight fish selections prepared six different ways force you to carefully weigh your options. So do a selection of prime rib, steaks and unique island favorites like Huli Huli Chicken (marinated in garlic, ginger and shoyu).

We started our aloha experience with the melt-in-your-mouth Crab and Macnut Wontons. A blend of crabmeat, cream cheese and macadamia nuts dressed with a mustard plum sauce, they overcame my initial hesitation and left me wishing there were one or two more on the plate.

"In between bites we watched the waves rear up and SMASH against the boulders lining the front of the restaurant."

For dinner we teamed up to cover the surf and the turf. April narrowed the wide selection of fish choices to the Seven Spice Ahi. Served rare, it was complemented by papaya hot mustard sauce and pickled bok choy. I opted for the Coconut Shrimp and Prime Sirloin. The shrimp and their tangy Thai chili sauce were a nice contrast to the tender, satisfying steak.

In between bites we watched the waves rear up and smash against the boulders lining the front of the restaurant. The exploding spray shimmered in the outside floodlights, mimicking a fireworks burst. Subtle "oohs" and "aahs" from diners marked the more spectacular blasts that spattered the restaurant windows with seawater.

It wasn't long before our waiter inquired about dessert. I had made up my mind before we sat down that our answer would be yes. Duke's serves Hula Pie, an inspired creation that originated at Kimo's in Maui. Picture this: macadamia nut ice cream piled high on a chocolate cookie crust and perfected with chocolate fudge, whipped cream and more macadamia nuts. Finishing a tsunami-sized slice requires at least two people, and April and I proved up to the task.

More importantly, Duke's proved up to the task of providing a relaxing evening with a generous serving of aloha.