Food superlatives are admittedly a subjective topic. Everybody has an opinion about where to find the best fill-in-the-blank. Whether it's sushi, steak, pizza or donuts, we all make our cases about who does what best.

Sometimes the food speaks for itself, and when it's been saying the same thing for more than 60 years, we ought to listen. Such is the case with The Apple Pan, a legendary Los Angeles lunch counter with devoted followers who, like me, will argue the eatery serves the best burgers anywhere.

What qualifies them for consideration, you ask? The best way to answer that is to visit and taste for yourself. But if you need a little convincing, I'll tell you why I think they deserve the honor.
The setting certainly puts you in a burger frame of mind. Across Pico Boulevard from the Westside Pavilion, The Apple Pan is a throwback that brings to mind an era long since replaced by the frenetic pace of modern-day West L.A.

Once through the wooden screen doors, you'll find dark wood-paneled walls and a U-shaped counter surrounded by round stools. Behind the counter, in plain view of the hungry patrons is where the magic happens. The crisp heads of lettuce, full fresh onions, and other garnishments are laid out and ready to be sliced. The beef patties sizzle on the grill while the soft buns are left to be lightly toasted on the inside. It's easy to see the ingredients are fresh, which helps make the burger so tasty.

The place is a blur of activity as the cooks keep things moving on the grill, and the servers take orders, clear dishes and man the cash register. Most customers don't need to see the menu, but I took the time to read it over on my last visit.

My 3-year-old son Drew and I had picked up my dad for lunch on a Saturday and headed over to Pico Boulevard. We were lucky to find a parking spot in the small lot behind the restaurant, and even more fortunate to find three stools that had just come available.

"Once through the wooden screen doors, you'll find dark wood-paneled walls and a U-shaped counter surrounded by round stools. Behind the counter, in plain view of the hungry patrons is WHERE THE MAGIC HAPPENS."

Dad and I opted for the Hickory Burgers, perfected by a generous dollop of tangy sweet sauce. We ordered Drew something he could wrap his mouth around - a grilled cheese. The three of us split two orders of fries. It wasn't long before our food was in front of us. The hot fries on those old-school cardboard trays, and the burgers wrapped in crisp white paper.

After watching the cooks work the grill, and our counter-mates enjoying their lunches, I was eager for the first bite of my burger. The soft, warm bun, crisp lettuce, hot beef and sauce all came together to create a taste unlike any other. Between bites of burger and fries, I sipped on my Dr. Pepper served the old fashioned way - in a stainless-steel holder outfitted with a disposable paper cone. I was in burger nirvana with hickory sauce smeared on my face to prove it.

Dad and I made short work of the burgers while Drew lingered over his grilled cheese, as he is prone to do. With hungry patrons lining up for the next available stool, I prodded him along. I wasn't ready to give up my seat just yet; I was just anxious to order dessert.

We ended our meal with a slice of another dish for which The Apple Pan is known: apple pie. It came warm, topped with a heaping scoop of rich vanilla ice cream. The three of us gave it our best shot, but the burgers had already filled our stomachs, so we couldn't finish the pie.

Stuffed, we paid the bill and wandered outside. It was another satisfying experience at The Apple Pan, which again clearly demonstrated they serve the best burgers around.

Eric Harnish is a Newhall resident.